Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

I spent the past two weeks climbing in Jasper, Arkansas with Tommy and Tristan. It was awesome, despite some weather challenges, difficulty finding gas stations at 3am, and having entire walls missing from the guidebook.

Welcome to HCR where camping is $5 per night and climbing is $5 per day (plus tax), and very few people climb during the end of December and beginning of January. Some days we had the over 400 routes and many more boulder problems to ourselves.  

Tommy hopping on the send train to flash Petrified 5.12a.

Tips for HCR:

• The weather in January is quite variable. I heard it could be anything from 16 to 60 degrees outside. I never saw 60, but it did get into the 40s one day, which was awesome. Unfortunately it was also 35 degrees and raining for three days, never got above 20 degrees for a couple days, and the temperature dropped to around zero several nights. The lesson: bring warm clothes and rain coats not just your water bottle and a pair of jorts.
• During the offseason (aka all winter) if it’s cold and/or rainy it’s 222% worth renting a cabin for $95 a night. You get a heater that cranks to 86 degrees, a shower, wood stove, pullout couch, two beds, a mini fridge, a microwave, and a porch for about $25 per night if you split it between four people. No reservations necessary during the winter; several nights we were the only group staying at the ranch.
• HCR is perfect if you like bouldering and bouldery sport climbs. The crux for most routes is right off the ground leading to easy climbing after the second bolt. Stick clipping is often advised.
• There is a four star 5.6 with the biggest jugs I have ever met. Climb it.
• Several areas do stay dry in the rain, but be careful when climbing on wet sandstone; unlike granite it becomes soft when wet and holds break easily.
• Try the nearby day hikes to awesome waterfalls along the Buffalo River as a rest day.
• There is a lot of goat poop. Everywhere. Especially in the goat cave where it’s at least a foot thick. Bring a tarp to set your bags and extra jackets on.
• Chasing and/or catching the goats roaming the property is forbidden.