The Reverse Warm-Up (and Variations)

Some people really like to warm up for a day of sport climbing. My friend Erin is a big fan of starting the day on a nice 5.6-5.7. She has sent 5.11c.

I don’t like to start out easy. It’s not because I think I’m all that, but I have a tendency to get used to jugs. I wonder why they have suddenly disappeared when my second climb is two grades higher and tend to fall more and complain even more in that situation. Thus, I determined the reverse warm-up to be a more effective method to begin my day.

The reverse warm-up is what it sounds like: starting on something harder than the route you’d like to send. Here is why (I think) it’s great:

1. You will get shut down or at least hangdog your way to the top desperation style. The next climb (your project) will feel easy in comparison.
2. If number one does not happen, you will surprise yourself by greatly increasing your on-sight grade.
3. At the beginning of the day you’re fresh, so you have maximum power to combat the lack of adequate hand and foot holds. You cannot use the “I’m tired from giving X five burns” excuse for not clipping the anchors.
4. You will be forced out of your comfort zone immediately, not lulled into spending the day doing “fun” climbing below your level.
5. You will be forced to work on your technique. This is good for you.
6. You will get better at climbing. Studies show pushing your grade has that effect.
7. Add your favorite additional reason here.

A note of caution: The reverse warm-up is not an excuse to cause great harm to yourself or others. Do not choose something two grades higher than your project. Do not skip bolts. Do not do anything you think would likely cause you or your belayer to suffer an injury requiring the attention of a medical doctor. If your project is 5.11a you might consider trying out an 11b or c first, not a 5.13b X.

Another note of caution: Do not use the reverse warm-up as a way to brag about your climbing level. Do not abuse the phrase “I warm up on 13a” to make it sound like you cruise it before projecting 14b. The reverse warm-up should humble you and show you what you might one day achieve not give you undue bragging rights.

Variations on the reverse warm-up:

1. Climbing wet routes makes anything dry feel amazing. (Consider likelihood of death before attempting to climb dripping cliffs).
2. Climbing in approach shoes, barefoot (if you normally use climbing shoes), or wearing thick wool socks in your least aggressive pair of climbing shoes will have you believing your Solutions are indeed the equals sign for sending.
3. Weighing yourself down with excessive draws or your trad rack for added discomfort and weird looks from other climbers.